At Baselworld 2018 Patek Philippe released the first Aquanaut chronograph, an adequate complication for Patek's sportier line. It was introduced 21 years ago in 1997 as an entrance to the less expensive Nautilus brand and less suffocating than the simpler Calatrava models. This new Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968A is a very interesting looking watch, which is aimed at a younger audience interested in contemporary touches such as a 42.2 mm wide case and touches of color, as there are orange accents ( a color that I have for personal passion) and the option for an orange rubber strap in addition to the black rubber strap. What is not cheap, even if at 38,600 CHF we are talking about 3,000 CHF more than the replica watches Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm watch.
So far, the Aquanaut has been available in the classic three-hand 40mm model plus the travel time model and the beautiful 42mm white gold released for the model's twentieth anniversary last year in 2017. The chronograph is a natural next step, and there are a lot of people out there who want the brand image of a Patek but in one piece with a contemporary dimension and sporty design to feel natural on the wrist. This is definitely that piece, in my opinion.
The 42.2 mm wide and 11.9 mm thick case is not the typical chronograph since the movement of the caliber CH 28-520 C of the flyback chronograph allows the chronograph hand to function also as the second hand , with Patek attributing the clutch without clutch for this. As a flyback chronograph without a sub-dial of the seconds, you can see the 60-minute chronograph counter which is aesthetically similar to the shape of the watch case at 6 o'clock. Again, the orange chronograph hand, the secondary number hand of 60 minutes and the sub-dial minute markers add enough color to the watch. What irritates me not to fake rolex end is the fact that the date window cannot match the color of the dial. It's a shame, and one that carries several Patek models including the Nautilus.
The CH 28-520 C caliber is composed of 308 parts, works at 28,800 Vph, and has a power reserve that varies between a minimum of 45 hours up to 55 hours depending on use. Turning the watch reveals the caseback of the exhibition, showing the movement with a central rotor in 21k gold. On the right side of the case there are two buttons and the crown, with the pusher at 2 o'clock for the start / stop of the chronograph where the pusher at 4 o'clock is used for the reset and flyback functions of the chronograph.
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